Your MacBook is power hungry. At home or in the office, it’s easy to plug in and feed the MacBook some power. On the road, it’s not that easy—until now. Powrbloc can use readily available batteries like V-Mount batteries, Anton Bauer batteries and the cigarette lighter socket in your car. Unlike most battery power adapters, Powrbloc can feed the MacBook Pro the 87 watts of power that it craves. Powrbloc comes in two styles: Catalyst and Injector. The Catalyst has a full size V-Mount or Anton Bauer Gold Mount battery plate and the Injector is a smaller version that can plug into different power sources. Powrbloc Catalyst V-Mount Edition Powrbloc Catalyst Anton Bauer Edition Powrbloc Injector P-Tap Edition If you are not from the commercial photo or motion picture world, you may not be familiar with V-Mount or Anton Bauer batteries or P-Tap (Power Tap) power sources. V-Mount and Anton Bauer batteries can bought and rented in just about every city in America. V-Mount are even more common overseas. They come in all kinds of capacities from 50Wh to 300Wh or more. If you need a bunch for a project, it may be more economical to rent them. If you want a couple of your own, here's some links to some V-Mount and Anton Bauer mount batteries: V-Mount Batteries: B&H Photo / AmazonAnton Bauer Batteries: B&H Photo / Amazon Catalyst V-Mount Edition powering a MacBook Pro and charging an iPad and iPhone. The Catalyst has two mounting holes that are 7" on-center which makes it easy to mount to the DigiPlate laptop mounting system. The Injector using a common car cigarette lighter port to charge a MacBook Pro. For more complete specs, visit www.Powrbloc.com.
When Apple introduced the 2016 MacBook Pro, it followed the design of the MacBook and replaced all the ports with USB-C (or what Apple calls Thunderbolt 3) ports. Our initial impression is very mixed as USB-C is a very fast interface (up to 40 Gbps) but the connector itself is very flimsy/frail/non-robust/weak. The USB-C connector is about the size and build quality of a USB2 Micro-B connector which is the little connector that most Android phones use to charge. And anyone with a Android phone will tell you those connectors break and fail all the time. USB-C on the left and USB-Micro-B on the right. Both pretty flimsy, right? So, what does that mean for tethered shooting? First it means you're going to need plenty of adapters because there are hardly any USB-C devices out there including camera tether cables. Although if anyone does start making USB-C tether cables, we would stay away from them. As of early 2019, you are still better off using your USB2 or USB3 tether cable with a USB-C adapter for the fact that the USB-C connector is so flimsy that you'll probably be breaking the connector a lot. Just the weight of a tether cable is enough to bend the USB-C connector let alone someone jerking the cable. You'll be better off using USB-C to USB adapters as they are only a few dollars each which will be a lot easier on your wallet when you break them. We found this USB-C to USB-A dongle on Amazon and it's been our goto adapter for the past 2 years. And so far we have not had any connection or data problems using them. We previously recommended a rigid stick adapter (the ones that kind of look like a thumb drive) but because they are rigid they lose connection to easily. When shooting tethered, we recommend using some kind of cable stability and management system like the one found on the DigiPlate Pro. This will drastically reduce the cable losing connection and broken connectors. The cable stability system you use really needs to be absolutely rigid like the DigiPlate Pro that keeps the the cable connector from moving at all—not even a millimeter. The USB-C connector is so thin and flimsy that just little movements that could result from using a non-rigid system like some of those string based cable stoppers will give you cable errors and disconnections while shooting tethered. The USB-C ports are so flimsy so you'll want some sort of cable stabilization like on this DigiPlate Pro otherwise you'll spend the day either reconnecting your tether cable or breaking the USB-C connector.
When shooting tethered, you and everyone on set want to see what's popping up on your capture computer. When it's just you, an art director and maybe one client, huddling around your laptop is not a big deal. But as your productions get bigger and three people huddling turns into ten or twenty, then it starts to become a problem. Enter the client monitor. Ideally you want it at least 100 feet from the camera—it's just too many people around the camera and it gets crowded fast. You can wire an external monitor to your capture computer but that creates another wire on set to trip over, 100 feet for a wired connection is pushing it and sometimes you need more than 100 feet for other various reasons. In the past, Nine Volt's owner, photographer Dana Neibert, has used HDMI wireless transmitters to get the capture images over to the client monitor. But HDMI wireless transmitters are notoriously troublesome and unreliable. And they are very expensive. For many years Dana used the Teradek Bolt Pro 300 which is one of their most affordable options and runs about $2,000 for a transmitter and receiver. The Bolt Pro 300 is supposed to transmit 300 feet which we have never gotten it to do. It's usually in the 50 foot range and sometimes even shorter if there's other air wave competition. BTW, the $300 Gefen Wireless Extender works just as well as the five times as expensive Bolt Pro 300. There are units by Teradek and others that can go farther but those systems are $7,000+. So, we came up with this idea of using Wi-Fi to get the job done. With the new AC Wi-Fi routers out there, you can definitely and easily get beyond 100 feet. With Wi-Fi there is the opportunity to use multiple routers to repeat the signal if you want to go a far distance. Also, if you shoot on a property like a hotel or resort with a large Wi-Fi system, you could put the video village just about anywhere you want. Another request from Dana was to make the client monitor and all it's parts a single unit so it can be popped in and out of a case without someone spending ten minutes finding and connecting cables, securing transmitters, etc. The picture below is the result and contains the monitor, a MacBook Air 11" and a Wi-Fi router. The basic principle is your capture computer and the MacBook both connect to the WiFi Router. The MacBook is connected to the large monitor and using Apple Remote Desktop, observes everything your capture computer is doing. A bonus that we added to the system is the Wi-Fi is battery powered and both of them, as a whole unit, can detach from the system. This can effectively double your range as you can now remove the Wi-Fi unit, place it on a stand and then move the client monitor another couple hundred feet. The battery is from Paul Buff (they make the Alien Bees), is Lithium (130wh) and easily lasts all day long. The other bonus of using a battery on the Wi-Fi is that when you move your location and unplug the monitor, the Wi-Fi stays powered up and you don't have to wait for it to boot up when you plug the monitor back in. The monitor system up and running in normal mode. The monitor system with the Wi-Fi module removed to double your range. The WiFi module removed from the main system and mounted on a c-stand. The system in action. OK, we're not pushing any limits here but you get the idea. The monitor could just as easily be placed up on the bridge or the other side of the track while getting a live feed from the capture computer which is next to the camera. An alternative to the MacBook is to use an Apple TV to mirror your capture computer but every Apple TV we tested gives a softer picture than using the MacBook so that any images viewed can look slightly out of focus which may drive your clients mad. Using the MacBook there is no difference in image quality between the capture computer and the client monitor. If you are interested in making something similar, here are the components we used: Apple MacBook Air 11" which you can usually get a better deal at B&H. Monoprice 27" IPS Monitor (BTW, this monitor has the same IPS panel that Apple puts in their iMacs and Cinema Displays. TP-Link AC1900 Wi-Fi router. Very fast and great range for about $125 at B&H or Amazon. DigiSystem MacBook Air Clamps which you can get from Inovativ. DigiBase (you'll need two—one for the whole system, one for the Wi-Fi module) also from Inovativ. Li-Ion Battery from Paul Buff. DC Converter to take the voltage from the battery from 16.4V to 12V for the Wi-Fi router. Apple Remote Desktop software
People always ask us what the best way is to customize their DigiCase Pro. We've been using the TrekPak dividers with great success. They are easily customizable to create nice compartments under your DigiPlate Pro to store cables, hard drives, a DigiShade Pro, etc. We recommend accessorizing the bottom of your DigiPlate first so you'll have a better game plan when figuring where your dividers can and can't go. The TrekPak dividers can be purchased at both B&H and Amazon for $95.
The DigiCaseMount will allow you to mount your DigiCase, Pelican 1510 or Pelican 1490 case to just about any stand or tripod. The DigiCaseMount is made from aircraft grade 6061 aluminum which is both lightweight and extremely strong. The DigiCaseMount is secured to your case with 8 bolts to ensures a tight and secure fit. The wide footprint of the DigiCaseMount along with the 8 securing bolts gives a sturdy and strong base for your case to eliminate slop and flexing. Check it out here.
The DigiCameraPlate attaches to the bottom of your DSLR and uses a friction system to keep tether cables from pulling out the dainty connectors that most tether cables are equipped with. The friction system is so effective, you can actually carry the camera around by the tether cable. Our founder is a working commercial photographer and regularly lowers ten pound cameras to his assistants from atop ladders, cherry pickers, etc. (they don't like it—it makes them nervous). Check out the DigiCameraPlate here.
Drones are becoming more and more accessible and affordable. You can go anywhere from a very expensive Freefly Cinestar Octocopter to a very affordable DJI Phantom 2. What most people don't realize is that now that you are airborne you are an aircraft and are subject to many of the same laws and regulations that a pilot flying a Boeing 787 is. To keep yourself on the right side of the law, a few tips from the APA and aerial photographer Cameron Davidson can be found here.
USB tethering with your camera has been around for many years. But as fantastic as it is, it comes with it's share of headaches; corrupt files, dropped connections, slow transfers. The biggest culprit is low voltage in your USB bus. Moving large amounts of data requires some power on the USB bus. When the voltage falls below spec levels, then you will start to experience issues. Sometimes with USB 3.0, when your computer sees the low voltage, it will automatically downgrade your bus speed to USB 2.0 speeds (10x slower) to compensate. We created a 6-port hub/repeater that works either self-powered or with an included AC adapter. Simply put the unit inline with your tether cable and it will keep you shooting all day long. As a self-powered repeater, it will take the power on the USB bus and amplify/repeat the power so that you can use 30+ foot long tether cables all day long. Since it is a 6-port hub, if you use multiple cameras or connect a couple self-powered drives, you'll want to connect the AC adapter as your USB bus will probably not be able to power all the devices. The repeater is USB 3.0 SuperSpeed and backward compatible with USB 2.0 devices. You can see complete specs here.
Here's another killer tutorial from Aaron Nace at Phlearn that will come in handy at about this time of year. This video gives you a step-by-step tutorial on adding realistic snow flakes to your image. Check it out in the video below and also head on over to Phlearn's blog post to read all about it here.
This trick from DigitalRevTV on how to get a candid street shot on the sly is pure genius. It's as easy as pointing your camera above the subject you want to photograph. Take a quick picture. Then point your camera at the subject you really want to shoot while pretending to review the previous photo. Then snap the candid you really want. Check out the technique here: